Quite surprisingly I was invited to be a part of a panel in front of a large audience at The Flemish Primitives. Here’s the video – the debate starts around 11:40 mins. More to come when I get some time to blog 
Inspired by Steve Plotnicki’s crawls in New York City with first chef Sergio Herman and later the food critic Jay Rayner, Laurent and I organised a crawl of CPH’s best restaurants on 4th February 2010. To visit six places on one evening would be another way to discover restaurants, food, service, local products and what a city has to offer in term of fine dining experiences. That’s the reason why we sat it all up.
So, who took part besides me?
High-End Food Ingo, German food blogger
Food Intelligence Bruno Verjus, French food blogger
Opinionated About Dining Steve Plotnicki, US food blogger and restaurant guide owner
Gastros on Tour Guillaume Coppin & Laurent Vanparys, food bloggers
Sensum.be Laurent Vanparys of the Belgian restaurant webguide
And this was our crawl plan:
- 17:45: Kiin Kiin *
- 18:30: Herman *
- 19:30: The Paul *
- 20:30: noma **
- 21:30: MR *
- 22:45: Søllerød Kro *
At Kiin Kiin we ordered snacks and the Thai street food. Herman, The Paul, noma and MR would serve us raw and cooked fish courses and at Søllerød Kro we would have a meat course and desserts. What were my expectations? First of all, I was looking forward to trying something I had never done before. It sounded a bit hectic from a logistical point of view, but it also sounded like good fun and possibility of comparing the restaurants and the food, service in a new way.
One city, one dinner, six guests, six restaurants. Stay tuned for more…
When you’re in CPH, tired of dining at all the fancy places and looking for a more relaxed dinner, then Aamann’s Etablissement is the place to go. This is a no table cloth, no bs bistro that serves excellent, innovative Danish food with a twist. Its extremely high product quality and the refined execution are much more ambitious than the bistro price level indicates.
The restaurant is owned by the famous “smørrebrød” (open sandwiches) expert Adam Aamann who during the early 2009 he extended his business with this lunch / dinner place next to his open sandwich shop.
The first time I dined here was with my parents-in-law a nice summer evening in June 2009. It was a sumptuous day where I first took them to noma for their first time ever and then later in the evening to Aamanns Etablissement.
I’ve been visiting several times since then and I get impressed every time I go. To show you the style of the food here’s what we had on December 1st 2009.
Gravad herring with borecole, quince, onions and crispy ryebread
2008 Jamek, Ried Achleiten, Østrig
A firm fish with a tiny sour note to it, balanced by the sweet quince. A sharp start.
The 100 % Grüner Veltliner was fruity, mineral with kerosene hints in the aftertaste which was a little weak on the fruit side.
Creamy soup of celeriac, apples and smoked eel
2007 Odinstal, Weissburgunder, Tyskland
Again a dish playing with textures and flavours with perfect balance. The soup was delicate and really tasty. The eel was amazing and not too smoky in its taste.
The Pinot Blanc offered a huge bouquet and mineral flavours with lots of fruit and acidity. An elegant wine.
Glazed pork breast with spelt sea buckthorn, chestnuts and Jerusalem artichokes
2008 Matthieu Dumarcher, VdT, Rhône
This most tender and tasty pig’s meat with a slight sweetness to it was accompanied by rich flavours of nuts and artichokes twisted with the bitter and acidic dried yellow berries. Absolutely awesome.
The 100% Grenache matched the food perfectly with its dry character.
Caramelized peer ice-cream with verbena and pain d’epise
2008 Domtalhof, Riesling Auslese
Sea buckthorn and carrots sorbet with melted butter and mint leaves
2006 Trossen, Riesling Spätlese trocken
This is one of the best desserts I’ve had lately. The combination of carrot and sea buckthorn is great and the mint on top is a real hit and takes the dish beyond delicious.
Trossen is a good friend of mine – well, not really personal, I mean - I just very much like his Rieslings. This one was sweetish, bitter and intense, not to mention: very very nice.
Aamanns Etablissement has personality and a clear gastronomic target for where they want to go. And they know to achieve it. Only talented people are able to do that.
Anders, Adam and everyone at Aamanns Etablissement, thanks for the lovely food and wine!
I know it’s yesterday’s news. Well it’s older than that actually. Anyways, I’d just like to ensure that you all know that due to the celebration of elBulli-founder Ferrran Adria hitting 50 in 2012, the best restaurant in the world will remain closed for private customers dring 2012 + 2013. They will re-open in 2014, however.
Ferran Adria himself announced this in his speach at Madrid Fusion Summit which took place this week and it’s described in the press release published on the elBulli website.
I have requested a reservation for this 2010 season, but haven’t yet heard anything back. I keep my fingers crossed.
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