Monthly Archive for March, 2008

Il Mio Divino

By a sudden impulse I had a nice late lunch yesterday at one of my favourite places on the north coast of Zealand about half hour’s drive from Copenhagen. I’ve been coming here on and off for many years – more often obviously after I got a car and after my mum invited my grandma and me for lunch on the occasion of her birthday some years ago.

On the corner of Strandvejen and Mørdrupvej and on the opposite side of Espergærde Havn lies Il Divino, the Italian wine bar that serves not only good Italian wines but also sandwiches, bruschette, pasta dishes and their speciality PIATTO MISTO “DIVINO” composing a wide selection of Italian classics and new delicacies such as pepperoni, mozzarella di bufala (buffalo milk cheese), grilled omelette, marinated mushrooms, fresh white and red cabbage with an acidic vinegar, pork roast and every time the chef varies the content so even though I’ve had this dish for probably more than 15 times, it never bores me. The coffee is excellent, strong and very short, just the right way and to my taste.

Two elements are essential to my love for this place: The warm atmosphere and the high level of the food product’s quality. It’s clear that the people who owns the place and the staff there has a passion for food and for conveying what they think is very good food. At the lunch yesterday, I was served an extra little special something, which was le arancine and I never tried them before neither at Il Divino, nor elsewhere in Italy. Le arancine are fried and crumbled rice balls that kinda looks like an orange, thereby it’s name, and with ham, cheese, peas and other variants inside. It’s served warm and with the cheese inside melted. It’s very delicious! The staff was having them for their (early) dinner, and I was invited to try it too. I’ve found an arancine recipe and with a couple of nice photos at Moscerino’s Italian blog Brodo di Giuggiole to give you an impression of what the ones I got looked like.

The Springboard
Michael Elmgreen & Ingar Dragset: Powerless Structures, Fig. 11 (1997)

The reason for going to Il Divino was the visit to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in Humlebæk and to experience the Giccometti and Cézanne exhibition that comes highly recommendable. It’s lovely in the way that very good works of art can be in satisfying. It affected me totally, and I lack words to describe the feelings I experienced. It’s a wonderful feeling, though, and I always feel very inspired after such a boom of creativity and beautiful input. Excellent food and art pieces go hand-in-hand in the way that both are able to move me. Actually, this goes for music too, by the way.

Anyway, I always make up excuses to justify a nice meal. I think it’s my speciality. The trip to Louisiana is my classic cover of to have coffee at Il Divino, which in the end always turn out to be a lunch or a dinner. There is a café at the museum, but I would always prefer my Italian divinity. Next time I’ll bring my camera and do a proper report!

Geranium Revisited

My recent Geranium experience on 12 March was wonderful. What stroke me this time was the combination of the extreme kindness from the staff in a very down to earth way and, of course, the quality and creativity of the food. It’s my second time at Geranium and this time was even better, than my first back in September last year.

Champagne

I didn’t take notes this evening but believe it was a N.V. 2005 Roses de Jeanne, Celles-Sur-Ource, a pure Blanc de Noirs from Cédric Bouchard.

Löjrom

Snack of Löjrom as far as I recall

Crisps

Very thin and very delicious potato crisps

Apple & Geranium

Apple jelly with Geranium appetizer

Scallops

Scallops and beet roots appetizer

Now writing this review, I remember the repeated question from one of my companions: “Is this the starter?” and this completely made sense, as there were an uncountable numbers of little amusements prior to the first dish of the menu. There were even more than I have shown here.

Lump fish roes

Lightly smoked lump fish roe
raw Jerusalem artichoke & powdered hazel nut oil

We had a 2005 Nerthus, Bligny-Les-Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet, which I LOVED. Amazing thing. The scent was so seducing and very complex with turpentine notes and minerals. The Meursault I originally asked for was out and Lasse, the sommelier, suggested this Puligny-Montrachet instead. Thank you, Lasse, I don’t think the Meursault would have pleased me as much.

The 2005 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Burgundy was very delicate and balanced in both fruit and acidity and, too, the expressions of the nose and palate. What the smell promised was rewarded in the taste and I liked that very much.

King Crab

King crab roast on bread
carrots, sea buckhorn and lemon cress

The portions were nicely small but fulfilling, flawless and deliciously tasty above all. The food elements are beautifully arranged with colours that match each other and that’s very important to me.

Geranium’s dishes are remarkably well compound, and each dish is expressive and distinct with the highest quality products. This is art. It’s clear that Rasmus and Søren know what they’re doing and what they want, and this is admirable. Personality from a restaurant is always more attractive to me.

Scent of rosemary with monk fish

Scent of rosemary
monk fish, puffed spelt, celeriac
burned leek & herbs from the garden

Now, this dish was an entertaining feature. It arrived with a glass cover, and removing it the scents of rosemary and other herbs surprisingly breezed up and danced into my nostrils, sending me back to my late teens and the (very) few experiences with pot parties.

Potatoes and Oxtails

Foamy potato
cheese from Kristiansminde, rye bread & oxtail

Lasse, has a few times posted a comment on my blog, but we never met in real life before. It was so much fun to put a name to a face. Lasse is a kind and warm person, even more than I had expected. I of course congratulated the team with the new one Michelin star and in turn we got a lovely glass of white wine for a blind taste, which I failed in guessing, unfortunately: A delightful glass of 2006 La Ferme de la Sansonniére, Vielles Vignes Des Blanderies, Chinan Blanc grape and from the Angeli field.

Veal

Happy veal
buds & sprouts of wild garlic, salsifies, mushrooms & apple vinegar

Milk

Milk

A word on the service. The staff was so easy and relaxed but still very professional, and I so liked that. They were very generous on the champagne, which was wonderful with mineral and a full flavour and vivid sparkles. The thing is, being known to the restaurant doesn’t mean that I get a better treatment than other people do, at least I don’t believe so. It means, however, that the staff possibly know me a little better, they know my preferences and thereby know better how to please me. This is what an excellent service is all about. Not to treat every customer in the same utmost manor, but to make every customer feel special. People have different needs and thus must be served independently.

Pre-dessert

Pre-dessert of hazelnut ice cream (I think)

Pumpkin

Pumpkin seeds
cloud berry juice & white chocolate

P4s

Petit Fours

Geranium is warm and lovable. I sensed this my first time there when I talked to Søren, but now this warm feeling is more outspoken. The food, the drink and the atmosphere tickle all my senses. I cannot ask for more.

Congratulations! And thank you all for a wonderful evening!

Trine Needs Slimming

I must share this with you. If this isn’t gluttony, then I don’t know what is. Four great restaurants in four days, how about that?

A couple of months ago I scheduled a weekend trip to visit a couple of restaurants, I’d never tried, outside Copenhagen. By coincident it happened that I would revisit my city’s two best restaurants during the preceding two days and thus made this my heaviest gastronomical week to date.

Now I feel totally stuffed and sense a slight acidic activity in my belly. Why, oh why, did I have to guzzle that bun sprinkled with poppy seeds after having eaten the scrambled eggs, ham and cheese at breakfast? My goodness, I wish I wasn’t this voracious…

Anyway, I shouldn’t complain, because it’s been a fabulous four days’ adventure. Wednesday evening, I joined three good friends for a farewell dinner at Geranium, which was even more delightful than my first time there. I will do a short revisiting review in a few days. Stay tuned.

On Thursday, I had the day off from work to spend the whole day with my dear mum. I had insisted on taking her out to lunch at noma, but the experience turned out much different from what I had planned. What a pleasant surprise, not to reveal too much yet.

For years now, I have desired to dine at Henrik Pedersen and Vivi Schou’s restaurant Babette in Vordingborg. Finally this past Friday I had the pleasure of being exposed to Henrik’s familial friendliness and great professionalism. No wonder he won the price of best waiter at the Spiseguiden awards for 2007. What a pity that the Michelin Guide doesn’t value restaurants outside Copenhagen. Vivi is a remarkable chef! And yes, I will tell you all about this fantastic night, which also provided me with my first Burgundy Grand Cru experience.

The Goose Tower

Vordingborg is also famous for The Goose Tower, and there is a nice view to the Faroe Bridge from it.

I have to warn you, though. If you ever dine at Babette and stay the night in Vordingborg, do promise that you’ll make reservations at the Bed & Breakfast, which Henrik recommends. I’ll try and get the name for you. I wasn’t aware of it and from ignorance chose the most horrible hotel.

Gavnø Castle

On Saturday I fancied a bit of historical and un-gastronomical cultural entertainment and went to see the beautiful castle of Gavnø, close to Næstved. Gavnø Castle has a beautiful garden full of flower beds, but unfortunately not in bloom yet. There were, however, a first evidence of spring forthcoming by a funny-looking shelduck taking advantage of one of the white females wandering about the garden. I imagine the beauty of red and yellow tulips and flourishing trees with majestic tree crowns and would like to return in a month or two to enjoy that.

The View of Isefjord from Holbæk

Next destination was the town of Holbæk, west of Zealand, to lodge at the Strandparken Hotel, which has a beautiful view of the Holbæk Fjord. Dinner was booked at the nice restaurant SuRi located at the harbour and offering not only a view to the water but also very good food, lovely oysters and, these days, a very entertaining service.

My flourishing forsythier

Full and happy (I must have gained 4 pounds, ugh!) I am enjoying the Sunday afternoon at my weekend cottage and musing at the past days’ epicurean escapade. It’s just lovely to listen to the birds singing and face the first yellow flowers on my forsythia bush.

It’s Official! Copenhagen’s Michelin Stars 2008

It’s official! The red Michelin Guide for the Main Cities of Europe 2008 awards following Danish restaurants in this year’s guide. 12 stars in a rather small city like Copenhagen. I think that’s great!!

Michelin Main Cities of Europe

Two stars:

Noma **

One star:

Ensemble *
Era Ora *
formel B *
Geranium * (New)
Kiin Kiin * (New)
Kong Hans’ Kælder *
MR *
Paustian * (New)
Søllerød Kro *
The Paul *

Congratulations!

Source: Politiken