NB! This restaurant is closed down and doesn’t exsist anymore.
Wow! What an evening! What absolutely surprising and fantastic food!
The restaurant with the peculiar name Tyvenkokkenhanskoneoghendeselsker (The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover) has got a new owner: Kasper Rune Sørensen. Before Kommandanten had closed, Kasper commanded the kitchen flag ship at this former Michelin two stars restaurant. Only a few months ago Kasper took over the little cosy place in one of the oldest and most pretty streets of Copenhagen Magstræde, and is now in full control of the establishment.
I wasn’t aware of all this. I was going out with my wine lover friend and we had chosen the Independence Day for our little tasting event. The month of July actually excludes a lot of nice gourmet places which are all closed during this month. So tourists, if you come for excellent food experiences pick another month of the year. For a very long time I have wanted to try out ‘Tyven’, but somehow the choice had always been some place else.
What attracted me about this place was that it was small, sounded special, sounded unpretentious, and seemed to be a place run by dedicated people really passionate about food and doing it according to what they would appreciate most about eating out. Naughty in a way, but that’s probably just the name of it.
We could choose from the a la carte menu or we could have the set menu comprising 6 courses. It was a hard choice because everything sounded tempting. And so did the short but interesting wine list.
While discussing all of the possibilities, we enjoyed a nice glass of Deutz rosé champagne with a great snack of puff paste sticks with dip.
The set menu this evening offered the following:
Salted langoustines served with mayo, cabbage, dill and apple
Fried Gurnard with green asparagus, mussels and savory
Confit of roe deer with pea purèe and rhubarbs
Saddle of roe deer with shiitake and peas, dried blueberries and lardo
Selection of cow milk cheeses, peach-onion chutney and manitoba bread
Mascarpone cream with strawberries sorbet, nougatine and pepper
One of the attractive main courses was the turbot served with bay shrimps, asparagus and elderflower, but we didn’t really want to miss any of the set menu dishes either. We were also looking for a nice bottle of wine which would suit the main course well. I wasn’t sure how this could come out. But Kasper knew. He kindly offered that we could get both the roe deer as well as the turbot in two small main course servings. What a most thoughtful and perfect gesture. (And then there I was again with my exaggeration. Will I ever learn?). Anyway, my friend and I both love fish and we preferred to match the numerous fish dishes with white wine and then to have a glass of red wine to accompany the deer.
It’s a bit embarrassing but I don’t remember exactly the reason for our selection of the wine but it went something like this. It had to be Burgundy and preferably (to me) not a Chablis. The choice was 2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon.
When we had finally ordered the wine, the amuse arrived. This appetizer was too delightful not to mention and it comprised a piece of scallop and some smoked eel rillettes. Very tasty and the eel wasn’t too intense for the shellfish. I found it appealing that the greeting from the kitchen contained delectable and rich fish and wasn’t just some empty filling you get sometimes. This amuse really titillated my senses. Wow, I thought. What can possibly follow now?
A wonderful wine this Clavoillon. Really. It was striking the smoke in the nose and the characteristic mineral scent. I thought it was my mind playing tricks on me and remembering the flavour of the smoked eel from the appetizer, but it wasn’t. It was the wine itself. A bit closed at start and not much fruit scent or taste but after a while in the glass it evolved much fruit and tannin too. A well-balance wine. Domaine Leflaive didn’t fail although 2004 can be rather acidic – according to Decanter.
I’ve never had salted langoustines before and this was a brilliant dish, probably one of the best starters I’ve had lately. The shellfish was sweet and the texture raw. I’m unable to say why but the slender mayo on top with the apple dashed over it made the fish even nicer, as adding perspective to the simple and fresh flavour of the langoustine. The green dill and the white brittle cabbage also matched it well.
Fried gurnard with crispy skin, asparagus and common mussel with touches of lemon and savory herb butter. The fish was moist and as fresh as if it had been caught the minute before serving it. A very elegant dish.
I love turbot and this was a heavenly dish. The fish flavour was so strong and intense like almost no other type of fish can be. The bitterness of the white wild asparagus and the sweetness of the scrimps and the elderflower (foam) gave balance and perfection to it.
This looks like a classical Danish dish called ‘hakkebøf’ so the image doesn’t give full credit to this most tender rillettes of roe deer, which had been cooked for seven and a half hour! A very rich dish, very delectable and the tiny rhubarb squares as well as the red onion rings putting a damper on the rich meat and sweet flavoured peas. I have to mention also that the potatoes were perfectly crispy but a waste in this picture. I don’t like mixing honest wholesome food with snacks.
This is the buck main course. I wonder how big the portion would have been if we hadn’t got also the turbot. Again a nice dish, saddle of buck with full tasted shiitake mushrooms and a good sauce.
With the two courses above we had a glass of red Pinot Noir 2004 Coteaux Champenios, which was a disappointment. The bouquet and taste was nice but thin and with very short finish. The Clavoillon overdosed it completely.
The sweet final of the fat Italian cream cheese, white chocolate and strawberries. Just right. Before this dessert painted with the colours of the national Danish flag, we had some lovely cow milk cheese that were served at the perfect temperature and a nice strawberry pre-dessert.
The service all evening was excellent an very personal as Kasper was the only waiter. The two of us were the only guests almost all evening and that was fantastic. Sometimes the food was brought to our table and explained by one of the cooks who seemed very competent (and cute, sorry). But we waited a bit too long before we got the coffee which we were pining for and which wasn’t strong enough to my taste (no espresso).
To summarise, if you are looking for food of the highest quality, but enjoyed in relaxed surroundings with an easy-going atmosphere then this is the right place. I have never tried private dining but this felt what I would imagine that would be like. All the courses were perfect and it was gorgeous to feast on a rudely large number of gourmet dishes and an even more impudent wine. A spoil in away, but a spectacular and memorable one. Feeling like this, the foodie in me got exactly what she came for and certainly hope to come back for more.
Now that was the end of Tyvenkokkenhanskoneoghendeselsker. But tell me please, why that name anyway?
Good luck with Nouveau!