Last year, I announced when the Michelin guide to the Main Cities of Europe 2007 was released. The 2008 one is not out yet. Although the Michelin guides are neither the only guides nor the best on to how to find nice dining places, I am impatient.
I’m sure, also that I am not the only person these days pondering how the Michelin guys have apportioned the stars of Copenhagen in the 2008 guide. Hm. Let’s see. Amongst the places I’ve been to lately, here’s my shot with regard to this year’s star glitter.
In 2007 and for the first time ever, the brave noma folks received their second Michelin star. All my noma posts justifies this. I’m sure that their talent and hard and excellent work will provide them with the third star as well. Some day. But not in 2008.
The meal I had when I last time visited formel B was outstanding, beautiful dishes and very high level as to products and technique. I didn’t fancy the service much, because I found it too stiff and too formal. I think, though, with the new luxuriousness of it is more of the style that Michelin honours. So all in all, I think formel B will get their second star in 2008.
Geranium opened in late March 2007 and has received nothing but praise. I believe every news paper and magazine awarded Geranium with their maximum score. I was lucky to lunch there once in September and had a lovely dining experience.
MR, Søllerød Kro and The Paul were all great and I’m positive that they’ve all maintained their one star. I also dined at Nouveau, which is housed now where the renowned Tyvenkokkenhandkoneoghendeselsker used to be. Nouveau opened officially 3rd September, and I think the place is yet too new to be considered for a star in the 2008 guide.
Conjuring where I have never been or visited only years ago, surely, Era Ora and Kong Hans’ Kælder will keep their one star too, but this I judge only from what I’ve read and heard.
Then the jokers: Paustian and Kiin Kiin (never been there). They each got a rising star, and will get a star in the 2008’s guide, if they keep up their current standard. Why shouldn’t they? I bet they’ve done all they were able to to achieve that.
Comparing with last year’s star rating, I haven’t mentioned Ensemble, where I never went. Probably it’s unfair to say so, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they would have lost their one star. I mean, counting four new stars, the competition in town is tough. We’re only 1,8 million people around here, and although people fly in from all over the world for the only reason to dine in Copenhagen, I think there’s a limit to our excellency. But that’s just my opinion.
What do you think?
One Star:
Era Ora
Geranium (+1)
Kiin Kiin (+1)
Kong Hans’ Kælder
MR
Paustian (+1)
Søllerød Kro
The Paul
Zero:
Ensemble (-1)
I think it’s pretty good. 😀 Is it a record btw.?
Promise I’ll visit Kiin Kiin and Prémisse this year ASAP!
Wow NICE going CPH!!!
But AGAIN nothing for Premissé????? Is it personal?
Personally I do not agree with the * for Paustian… Talented chef, but last time I ate there (with a group of chefs & sommeliers) we had 2-3 courses which were NOT worth a star (actually not worth eating)…. ??? Hmmm compared to the perfect meal / wine and servise at Premissé???? I´m flabbergasted!!!!
I am very happy for Kiin Kiin! You should try it when you can, Trine 🙂
Wow!! 🙂 Great, Lord Rodney, thanks a lot!
Source: Politiken
I had the number of stars correct, but the distribution of them wrong. 😀
Here is the new guide for 2008!
Noma (two stars**)
Bo Bech at Paustian (new star*)
Kiin Kiin (new star*)
Geranium (new star*)
Ensemble*
Kongs Hans Kaelder*
Formel B*(lost rising star)
Era Ora*
The Paul*
MR*
Søllerød Kro*
Hi Neil
Thanks so much for your comment! I’m very happy to hear MR is still great. I’d LOVE to see the wines you got too. Fun to read that they still serve the lumpfish roes on smoke. 🙂
Trine
I had dinner at MR last night and would certainly expect them to keep their star. We took the 7 course menu and found it exciting, fun and extremely well executed – certainly we are both still thinking and talking about it this afternoon! The only item that seemed to be common to the menu from Trine’s visit is the veal tartar with lumpfish roe that then gets the smoke treatment at the table. However, our favourite courses were the scallop with duck’s tongue and the plate of different beets. Both of these were quite outstanding.
We could not decide whether to take the accompanying wine menu or to order ourselves. But looking at the wine list, I found it very extensive and opted not to have to spend ages making a choice from it. So we took the menu – perhaps this is why they don’t post the wine list on their web site? Anyway, I’m glad we did, the wines were all excellent and it was a great experience to have so much variety in one meal. The maitre d. has promised to email me the list of wines that we had so perhaps I’ll post them later.
Service was perfectly good, even if the couple on the table next to me were unimpressed.
Neil
Wow, Est est est (is there a story behind your nick name?) that’s an impressive list!
Thanks for mentioning some places from down under… if I would ever get the chance.
Of the number of choices in San Sebastian, what made you pick Arzak?
@ Trine
Ups the Arzak came in as a mistake. It was on my list of the best meals in 07 (all over)…
My personal top 5 in 2007
1 : Marque Restaurant, Sydney (www.marquerestaurant.com.au)
2 : NOMA
3 : Arzak
4 : Tetsuya’s, Sydney (www.tetsuyas.com)
5 : Premissé
About Nouveau I think it is real nice food, classique and lovely…
Good point about the lack of memory with the comprehensive consume of alcohol.
Another reason is that I love to spend the whole weekend at my cottage.
The disadvantage about going out Fridays and Saturdays is also that the restaurants are always packed and noisy and the staff cannot give you the same high amount of attention. For example, escorting me to the loo and hold the door for me like they most kindly do it for me at noma.
I did take the afternoon off often last year. But now I have a lot of holiday left, so I can take whole days off instead 🙂 I wouldn’t be able to work, if I were dizzy. Through last year and now, my work has become more important to me and I therefore don’t feel like mixing my hobby and my work too much. If you know what I mean.
When you’re going out as much as you are it’s probably easier to get hold of the lunch tables than me trying to squeeze in a reservation on a Saturday.
I surely can relate to the fact that you’re able to digest the whole experience in a better way when having lunch rather than dinner. Furthermore the dinner often is accompanied by more wine, hence extensive memory loss.
Do you usually plan it in a way where you take half a day off when going to lunch – or do you return dizzy to work? (With a lot of great ideas!)
I don’t know really, Allan. Most by accident I think. Amongst my plans listed for March and April only one is a lunch. Next week. Also eating a bunch of food with wines to accompany exhausts me so that I would prefer to have the following day off. With lunch I can recover during the evening and still feel fine the day after. Very fine dining has such an impact on me emotionally that I almost feel dizzy afterwards and the feeling stays with me for a very long time.
Trine, I’m curious to know why you often choose lunch over dinner – other than better photos 🙂
Arzak?
Thanks for your bet on the stars. 🙂 What did you think of Nouveau?
@ Trine
Yes you should definitely go there, It was the best dinner I had in CPH in 2007….. Close followed by Noma & Arzak…
My guess for the 2008 guide:
Kong Hans kælder *
Ensemble *
Noma ***
Premissé ( Rising *)
Geranium ( Rising *)
Paustian *
The Paul *
Søllerød kro *
Formel B **
Era Ora *
MR *
Kiin Kiin *
Restaurant Nouveau ( Rising * )
Very optimistic I know, nevertheless I think it´s realistic and would be much deserved….
Heheh, Bibendum, you surely fool us all 😀 But 13 stars and three rising ones? That would be too good to be true, wouldn’t it?
Lasse, what about me?
Btw., My impression is the same. The *** is the quality and preparation of the food.
Est est est, I still need to try Prémisse. Perhaps I should try and sqeeze in a lunch there before 30 April where it looks as they’ll stop that offer.
Missed that one Bibendum. I thought you were an insider 😉
I surely hope that Restaurant Premissé will get ther much deserved 1 star this year…. It´s a mystery to me how Michelin have neglected to award this fantstic kitchen for now TO many years…
No, my list is pure speculation, or should I say wishfull thinking!
Bibendum, is that the official list? Do you have a link?
Hi everyone.
Nice to hear so many nice things about Geranium, And Thomas thanks for the two stars 🙂 (hope to see you here again soon)
First of all. I do not think winemenu or winelist has ANYTHING to do with the 1 star. I think the 1 star is only regarding the Food.
Think about Restaurant Oubæk, they got 1 star after 6 months without even having a broader winelist.
Regarding Restaurationen… it should not be the winemenu that keeps the, away from 1star..
Anyway I cant wait until the 11th og March!!
Best Regards
Lasse Kruse Rasmussen
Restaurant Geranium & http://www.kronevin.dk
Thanx Trine! 🙂 Yes Jurancon for dessert. Very nice at a very fair price!
I guess Formel B is pretty happy right now! 🙂 None for Kiin Kiin this time……..
The List for Copenhagen.
Guide Michelin Main cities 2008
Kong Hans *
Ensemble*
Noma**(*)
Premisse (*)
Geranium *
Paustian *
The Paul *
Søllerød kro *(*)
Formel B **
Era Ora *
MR *
Congrats, Rasmus! Very happy for you. 😀 Wow, that’s exciting, huh?
Aarrgh, I was too late. I had mixed up the dates and thought it was Saturday next that you were going. Nice choices! I read you notes. The Kongsgaard sounds like a hit 🙂 I’ll remember that. The Juracon was that for dessert?
I agree with your about MR, Allan. Thank you for your contribution to the discussion! I have never been to Premisse and I’m interested in hearing more about Rasmus Grønbech’s place. Hopefully I can read a review at your site soon? 😉
I definately think MR should keep their one star. I’m not sure if their wine list should be more extensive as I’ve only tried their wine menu, which I must say was very delicate and perfect for the food we had.
Geranium deserves to get a Michelin star, hopefully they’ll get get 1 plus a rising star as I definately believe they’re as good as Noma. I don’t believe they’ll get 2 stars right away, but in my humble opinion what I’ve gotten at Geranium was better than Noma – and better service as well.
Interesting to see if Premisse will get a star, as I’m going there this Saturday. I’m very much looking forward to it!
We ARE heavy drinkers!hehehh! BUT there was a good reason that Britt my girlfrind and wife to be won’t be drinking any alcohol for the next six months 😉 well just a sip now and then if she wants! She got some Non-alcohol Viognier grape juice thay had. It was exellent!! As for wine me and the old folks had:
Ployez-Jacquemart NV
2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay
Billecart-Salmon Rosé NV
2003 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon IX Estate
1990 Veuve Clicqout Ponsardin
1994 Domaine Chaupé Jurancon
Do you know already what the menu will comprise?
Those champagnes look stunning. Not that I have tried any one of them though.
For the white? Know zero about Bordeaux (that’s why 2008 is dedicated to explore and learn more. Haven’t come that far yet, embarrased to say), so no help there, I’m afraid :(. BUT. I would know what Burgundy to choose:
1. Leroy, Meursault (from 2000 ->)
2. Remi Jobard, Meursult/Bourgogne blanc
3. 2002 Domaine Joblot, Givry 1.cru Servoisine
(I know where to get them if you don’t).
3 bottles, arrgh, Lord Rodney, I thought you were heavy drinkers?
I have a few good ideas. Since Im bringing the wines myself I also have the responsebility of making it match with the food. I was thinking three wines.
Champagne: A bottle with both fresh acidity and some age with toast, butter, moshrooms. 1990 Cuvée Dom Pérignon, Krug grande Cuvée, 1988 Jacquesson Grand Vin Signature or 1990 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin.
White: A good rich one like Chardonnay, perhaps from California. I would also love to have a white Bordeaux but I don’t have any and I’d be hard pressed to find a good one before Saturday evening. Any ideas trine??
Red: 2003 Greenock Creek, Creek Block Shiraz. It has 100pts from Robert Parker. But I have never tasted it and it may be too powerful! Otherwise a 2005 Barroche “Pure” Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Thanks many times for describing what you experienced at Kiin Kiin. I realise now that I have to try it! (But the website is totally annoying.) What pretty photos I imagine I could shoot there.
I wish you a great evening on Saturday! 😉 Have you decided what to drink, there, LR?
Yeah, Chuck has the Sportsman on his list as well. I suppose I should too… I trust your valuations 🙂 Hope the Goose will be enjoyable!
The UK Michelin Guide? My personal impression is that no, there weren’t any big surprises since there were no new 2 or 3 stars, although Hibiscus and Nathan Outlaw drew the most post-announcement discussion.
Was particularly pleased to hear of new stars for the Sportsman in Seasalter and the Goose at Britwell Salome. The meal I had at the Sportsman last year was amongst the finest I have ever enjoyed in the UK – and I hope to return soon. Also have my first visit planned to the Goose next month – which I am really looking forward to.
But on the whole, there is such fevered speculation in advance of the event, that it’s hard to see a scenario that isn’t suggested by someone somewhere!
Yes I do! He is every bit as good as some of more cosy Michelin Restaurants I have been to in France. Good classic food with a surprising twist now and then. I am going there on Saturday so let’s see again 🙂
About Kiin Kiin: I must say that some of the combinations of their food just shook me to the core! Quail in coconut cream, green jellys with crisp greens to name some. the tons of amuse bouche that you start with. An the XTRA ORDINARY personal service that we xperinced from start to finish. And of course smaller stuff like the nice settings and the over-the-top bathrooms with many soaps, perfumes, flowerleaves, candles and soft music. This wasen’t just a “new” thing. I thought to myself, why the hell haven’t anybody done THIS before!!??
Thanks LR! Of course I can!
So, you think that Bo should get his star back? Can you tell me, please what was so great about Kiin Kiin that it deserves a star in your book?
Thomas, I’m desperately trying to find that disgorgement date you’re speaking about for the few NV champagnes I’ve got in my “cellar”. Hmm. No luck so far. Wonder whether all non vintage have a date of that kind.
I’ll rate the ones I have tried. The way I feel it. Hope you can use it 🙂
Two stars**
Noma
One star*
Kong Hans(needs a much broader wine list)
Søllerød Kro
Kiin Kiin
Restaurationen(needs a better wine menu)
No star
Era Ora
Wow, Thomas
Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts about the quality of Copenhagen gourmet dining!
You mention Premisse, which I’ve never tried and thus find it hard, very hard, to judge. I would like to pay Rasmus Grønbech a visit in 2008 and hope it’ll be possible. A quick look at the wines wasn’t bad.
Wines and MR, as far as I remember I had imagined their list to be more extensive. But the food…. there was something about that whole dinner last year that simply impressed me. I really liked it.
Will be interesting.
YKL, thanks and I think you’re right. By the way, were there any huge surprises when the UK guide was released? – Hope to see you when you’re back here in DK 😉
Think the Michelin guide is due out in mid-March isn’t it? so not long to go now ….
Always fun to read other people’s musings on these subject – the only downside is that it provides more temptation to return to Denmark!
Hi Trine,
There are some restaurants which I haven’t visited for a while now. Formel B is one of them – the place has never impressed me. The food is sharp – extremely beautiful served, but lacking finesse and soooo heavy. But I have been told that it has changed.
Also Paustian and The Paul, which I have only tried once. MR and Premisse are also a while ago, but I have tried them 3 times each. Ensemble – I have visited the place over 10 times, but only 3 times since the ownership changed. I have promised myself never to come back due to an insulting service. The food was a scandal the last time I visited – almost nothing on the plates and the meat was dry and the Fois Gras was revolting. But I have heard that it has changed and the old sommerlier Mads Højlund has returned (which is a positive sign)
Here is my list – 100% subjectively preferences and not a guess on how the Michelin stars will look for Copenhagen / 2008. All based on the last meal there.
Two Stars
Noma
Geranium (Their wine menu need to be more focused in future)
One Star
Kong Hans
The Paul
Era Ora
Søllerød
Premisse
Formel B
Zero
Ensemble
Paustian
MR
No rating (Never tried)
Kiin Kiin
/Thomas