Perfection at Geranium

The month of February offered me a lot of lovely food experiences and this Geranium lunch was absolutely one that stood out as one of the best. For a very long time I have had the wish of sharing a meal at Geranium with a very dear friend of mine, who is not in town that often. So I was happy when she agreed to visit this place on 20 February.

The view to the snow white garden

Actually, when I booked the table I figured that we would play it low and just enjoy a few nice dishes and then dash out again to explore the city and do some shopping. But restaurant manager, Anne, gave us an an offer we could not refuse. Rasmus Kofoed and Søren Ledet were in Germany, attending a conference for organic food and so we did not get to meet them. Too bad for my friend as I would really have liked her to meet these guys. Anyway, the three of them had prepared a nine courses meal for us with matching wines. Anne’s question was:  Would we have room for all that?

So, there we were in the beautiful dining room lit up by the reflections of  the King’s Garden prettily covered in white snow and, basically, spending the whole day at Geranium. Eating and drinking.

Geranium Plant

A geranium plant

Geranium has existed for only a year and 10 months, and I’m amazed how fast Søren and Rasmus have developed their very own way of style and expression. My first visit dates back to September 2007 and my second in March 2008. Read my reviews for a more detailed description of the room, the surroundings, and the warm and kind service which is still so present there.

As to the food, there is such a delighteness about their creations, such beauty and such refinement. Take a look at the post from my first visit and compare the dishes with the these. Rasmus and Søren do really have an eye for combining colours, which is something that absolutely woos me.

While nipping the snacks we enoyed a nice Rosé de Saignée Fleury, Champagne. Then followed:


Apple & Geranium
(Image courtesy of Laurent/GoT)

If there were ever a cleanser to reset the palate in order to prepare it for the meal, then this Geranium chiffon(?) with the fresh, sweet and sour aromas surely is it.

Smoked scallops

Smoked scallop, apple flower, horseradish & hazel nuts
(Image courtesy of Laurent/GoT)

King Crab

King Crab, roots and yellow berries
2006 Pierre Frick, Pinot Noir, Blanc de Noir, Alsace
(Image courtesy of Laurent/GoT)

Cod, Cabbage and Oyster

Cod jaws
Five types of cabbage, lumpfish roes & smoked cheese

De Sousa Brut Réserve, Blanc de Blanc, Champagne

This  dish is so gorgeous with the dominating colour of green and the pink roes sprinkled about. A vigorous smell flourishes from it and the taste was fantastic. The grey-ish and green leaf almost in the centre tastes like an oyster, and here it was a little hint of what was coming. The last moutful comprised  a lovely hidden surprise of a tasty and delectable oyster.


Monkfish and Jerusalem artichokes

Signiture dish: Smoke, embers & ashes
Jerusaleme artichokes, monkfish(?)

2007 Trossen, Kerstenbush, Riesling Spätlese, Mosel


Fried Bread
Burnt onions & pickled green elderberries

2006 Pierre Overnoy, Arbois Pupillin, Jura

Again a marvellous scent hit my nose and the flavours were refined and delicate but at the same time creamy and very rich.

Mushrooms and truffles

Air of mushrooms

Mint soda Ørbæk Brewery, Funen Island

My goodness what an incredibly powerful scent of black truffles. It seemed like a warning for my palate, because the combination of the various mushrooms had such a full and mind-blowing intensity. I loved this dish. I didn’t quite get the choice of mint soda drink with the mushrooms, though. The flavours were contradictory to me. But it was the only drink-food marriage that didn’t work for me that day.

Herbs and broth

The King’s Herb Garden
Piedra Luenga Fino, Montilla-Moriles, Andalusia

Ox and beets

Ox and truffles

Young Ox
Beetroots, mushrooms, truffles & potato skin

2006 Domaine Prieuré Roch, Nuit “1”, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy

It wasn’t just the food, which had a powerful smell. It was also characteristic for this lovely Pinot Noir wine. Such pure cow shed, decay and soil notes in the nose and full-bodied palate that offered a lasting finish as well. What more could I wish for?

Geranium's beer drink

Beer and ice-cream

Ice-cream of Ørbæk beer
Malt rumble & liquorice
Geranium’s beer-soda

I really liked the bitter-sweet taste and the caramelish-nutty flavours that had a touch of anis or liquorice. The home made drink of half beer and half lemonade was a great and perfect match for this nice novelty.

Pine and smoke

Sweet snow

White Snow
Yoghurt, pear, scent and flavour of pine

2006 Peter Mentges, Riesling BA. Kronenberg, Mosel
(Image courtesy of Laurent/GoT)

While René Redzepi’s and noma’s obviously unique and curious style sometimes can have a slight roughness or rawness to it, Geranium is evidently elegance and pure pleasure.

Furthermore, with this meal each dish had its own mission, sort of; it had a story to tell and a message to convey and did it in a subtle way.  Very slowly and dish by dish delightness overpowered me and made it impossible for me not to yield. When food can evoke such emotions, it is proof that fine dining on this high level is a work of art. I love Geranium.

Apple distillate

Coffee and Brosholm apple brandy

Rasmus and Søren have the gifts of being able to play with your senses. First the stunning and colourful look, then the powerful scent and finally the wonderful and intense taste. It is pure epicurean seduction! Geranium is a fairy tale and I cannot wait to go back for my next adventure.

All the dishes were flawless. They were sharp. The meal was completely delighting and it is – in my book – certainly worth a rising second star!

Bravo, and thank you all for such a lovely experience!

21 Responses to “Perfection at Geranium”

  • Lucky you, Allan!! And formel B on Saturday!? Please please please write a post about you experience there! 😉

    Thanks for the flowers. BTW, I have good news about FC Foodies and will send out more info during the weekend.


  • Geranium’s top notch! Booked a table there in June, but until then will have to cope with Formel B on Saturday.

    Hope you’re doing great, Trine. Lovely post with beautiful pix.

    – Allan

  • Thank you, u.e. And yes, the green grass you would see through the windows was completely corvered in white snow. Such a pretty and light setting.

  • Gorgeous. Gorgeous. Gorgeous, Trine. Is that snow I see outside?

  • Thanks very much Rasmus! It really is very kind of you to comment and say so. Please forgive that it took me five days to respond. I am on Easter holiday (lucky me hehe).

    You are so right about Mielcke & Hurtigkarl. I have never been there. And Herman – it’s already 6 months since I tried it.

    And when will you post again? Am waiting…. 🙂

  • Brilliant post Trine – and may I compliment your pictures while we are at it. Really good work.

    Geranium just has a way with colors – one masterpiece after another. They are like little Picassos on a plate.

    If Geranium isn’t worth a trip, then what is? (Hypothetical question adressed at a French tire company – it’s worth a week long stay, if you ask me)

    Your post made us book a lunch right away – April 16th – the countdown has begun.

    And by the way, it’s April, which means Herman and Mielcke & Hurtigkarl is now open for lunch as well – hooray – send in the troops 🙂

    Can’t wait for you next post.

  • Maya, I have for you and thank you for your kind words and for reporting back your decision. I look forwarding to hearing your feedback again in May!! 🙂

    Hey Couss, I’m so pleased. Thank you so much for your sweetest comment. It’s always great to “meet” new foodies and I’m happy that Geranium was able to fulfil your expectations.

    Hi Thomas
    Well for Geranium I believe your ahead of me, aren’t you? 😉


  • Hi Trine,

    Amazing report – I love Geranium….have to visit again, SOON!!!!.



  • Hi Trine,
    I’ve been looking at your fantastic website for some months now, and when I planned a trip with my friends in Copenhagen last week, it was actually an excuse so I could go to Geranium! 🙂
    I went there with my girlfriend, and the place is absolutely wonderful. I had the King crab, the cod cheeks (wow, the green!), the ‘happy chicken’ and the white snow, which they told us it was the last day the served it.
    It was my first experience with that kind of restaurant, and hopefully not the last!

    Thank you!

  • Thank you, Trine! We’ve settled on Geranium and have booked a table in May. Can’t wait! And looking forward to more fantastic restaurant suggestions (and photographs!) on your blog, as always…

  • Chuck – The King’s Herb Garden was so pure and delighting. A clear taste of each ingredient.

    Hello Daniel, Swedish Pastry Guy! 🙂 Yeah, I was so surprised about that kind of serving in the half cut bottle. I certainly do have plans of going to Stockholm. Soon I hope! Take care you too.

  • Hello Trine I hope you feeling well I must say that I love the dessert served in bottle, whata good ide.We Have a new meny now it´s really good you should come and check it out. One of Swedens best chéfs it´s working for Operakällaren now, and it´s really inspired everyone.

    Take care best wishes/ Daniel the Swedish “Pastry Guy”

  • Ok, Geranium will be added to my Copenhagen itinerary – that looks really special. The King’s Herb Garden looks so majestic, in its simplicity.

  • Maya, hi!
    Ah, that is a tough one! I think I would choose Geranium for the food – it’s a restaurant experience in the more traditional way and excellent food. I would pick Kiin Kiin for the whole atmosphere, the club feeling of the place but with great food that you won’t find anywhere else. Does that make sense?
    S’il vous plait! My pleasure!

    Food Snob
    Ah, don’t believe ya! 😉

    Thank you! 😀
    Well I impatient for spring. We had some nice days a week ago with about 10 degrees Celcius but now it freezing again. But the good thing is that it’s now not dark when I go home from work 😉

  • Hi Trine,
    Thank you for your blog! I love it! My husband calls you my food guru.
    I’m planning a special evening in Copenhagen in May and I would like to book a table at either Kiin Kiin or Geranium, but I can’t make up my mind (though this fantastic post & photos are making me lean toward Geranium). Would you suggest one over the other? Is one more surprising / interesting?

  • lol..I am running out of adjectives…need a break!

  • Awesome photos from you and Laurent! That meal looks absolutely incredible – it really does seem like a more urbane counterpart to noma’s somewhat rustic tendencies. Like Per Se to the French Laundry…

    The plating of the ice cream is so whimsical, it made me smile. And snow! What a beautiful view. I miss snow and cold winters. I want to visit when it snows, one of these days.

  • The Gastronaut – Thank you so very much! 🙂

    Robus – We almost went the same day! How funny is that!? 😀

    Food Snob – I’ve reaslied where you drop all your words. 😉

  • Hi Trine, looks like another great day! This was the weekend my wife and I were in Copenhagen, following in your footsteps… we were at Noma on the 20th and Geranium on 21st, and we love the cod-cheeks the best. Thanks for the reminder again!

    Cheers, Rob

  • Simply stunning photos….among your best….and that is a huge compliment.

Comments are currently closed.