My recent Geranium experience on 12 March was wonderful. What stroke me this time was the combination of the extreme kindness from the staff in a very down to earth way and, of course, the quality and creativity of the food. It’s my second time at Geranium and this time was even better, than my first back in September last year.
I didn’t take notes this evening but believe it was a N.V. 2005 Roses de Jeanne, Celles-Sur-Ource, a pure Blanc de Noirs from Cédric Bouchard.
Snack of Löjrom as far as I recall
Very thin and very delicious potato crisps
Apple jelly with Geranium appetizer
Scallops and beet roots appetizer
Now writing this review, I remember the repeated question from one of my companions: “Is this the starter?” and this completely made sense, as there were an uncountable numbers of little amusements prior to the first dish of the menu. There were even more than I have shown here.
Lightly smoked lump fish roe
raw Jerusalem artichoke & powdered hazel nut oil
We had a 2005 Nerthus, Bligny-Les-Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet, which I LOVED. Amazing thing. The scent was so seducing and very complex with turpentine notes and minerals. The Meursault I originally asked for was out and Lasse, the sommelier, suggested this Puligny-Montrachet instead. Thank you, Lasse, I don’t think the Meursault would have pleased me as much.
The 2005 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Burgundy was very delicate and balanced in both fruit and acidity and, too, the expressions of the nose and palate. What the smell promised was rewarded in the taste and I liked that very much.
King crab roast on bread
carrots, sea buckhorn and lemon cress
The portions were nicely small but fulfilling, flawless and deliciously tasty above all. The food elements are beautifully arranged with colours that match each other and that’s very important to me.
Geranium’s dishes are remarkably well compound, and each dish is expressive and distinct with the highest quality products. This is art. It’s clear that Rasmus and Søren know what they’re doing and what they want, and this is admirable. Personality from a restaurant is always more attractive to me.
Scent of rosemary
monk fish, puffed spelt, celeriac
burned leek & herbs from the garden
Now, this dish was an entertaining feature. It arrived with a glass cover, and removing it the scents of rosemary and other herbs surprisingly breezed up and danced into my nostrils, sending me back to my late teens and the (very) few experiences with pot parties.
Foamy potato
cheese from Kristiansminde, rye bread & oxtail
Lasse, has a few times posted a comment on my blog, but we never met in real life before. It was so much fun to put a name to a face. Lasse is a kind and warm person, even more than I had expected. I of course congratulated the team with the new one Michelin star and in turn we got a lovely glass of white wine for a blind taste, which I failed in guessing, unfortunately: A delightful glass of 2006 La Ferme de la Sansonniére, Vielles Vignes Des Blanderies, Chinan Blanc grape and from the Angeli field.
Happy veal
buds & sprouts of wild garlic, salsifies, mushrooms & apple vinegar
Milk
A word on the service. The staff was so easy and relaxed but still very professional, and I so liked that. They were very generous on the champagne, which was wonderful with mineral and a full flavour and vivid sparkles. The thing is, being known to the restaurant doesn’t mean that I get a better treatment than other people do, at least I don’t believe so. It means, however, that the staff possibly know me a little better, they know my preferences and thereby know better how to please me. This is what an excellent service is all about. Not to treat every customer in the same utmost manor, but to make every customer feel special. People have different needs and thus must be served independently.
Pre-dessert of hazelnut ice cream (I think)
Pumpkin seeds
cloud berry juice & white chocolate
Petit Fours
Geranium is warm and lovable. I sensed this my first time there when I talked to Søren, but now this warm feeling is more outspoken. The food, the drink and the atmosphere tickle all my senses. I cannot ask for more.
Congratulations! And thank you all for a wonderful evening!
Hi Thomas
I hope you do get to re-visit Geranium in may. If so, do let me know please how the visit compares to your previous one(s).
Thanks a lot for your tasting note. It’ great. Like always. You’re right it was difficult to describe the Roses de Jeanne Champagne. But it’s probably because of my poor experience in the field.
Trine
Hi Trine,
Stunning report and the pictures are incredible.
I will have to buy a SLR-Camera.
I will hopefully visit Geranium in May.
I have also tasted the Roses de Jeanne Champagne
My TN is in Danish:
NV / 2005 Cedric Bouchard / Roses de Jeanne ”Les Urles”, Champagne
(100% Pinot Noir – Årlig produktion 3.300 – 3.600 flasker)
Normalt søger jeg sjældent råd når jeg køber vin, men når det gælder Champagne føler jeg først, at rejsen er begyndt og derfor et denne fremgangsmåde naturlig for mig. Således bemærkede importøren af denne vin følgende – ”Les Urles smager, som sin helt egen”. Selvom det kunne lyde som det ældste salgstrick i verden, passer det ret godt. Næsen er ret svær at beskrive – den er i første ombæring ret tilbageholden med blomsterstøv og kølig jern/jod noter. Derfor går jagten på personligheden mere på ”feel” og her syntes jeg den triumferer med fabelagtig friskhed, blandet med mørke toner, som nærmest stammer fra mineralsk støv og roseblade. Smagen følger godt op med intense mørke fraseringer og god blanding af mineralske undertoner. Noget af den mineralske kommer dog fra en lidt uforløst kantet tone, som savner lidt fedme (den er uden dosage), men årgangen taget i betragtning og den generelle friskhed spiller det alligevel ret fint. En Champagne, som ikke charmerer den uprøvede smager, men lytter man godt efter finder man en stærk personlighed og noget unikt.
/Thomas
Of course I liked it! 😉 I loved it. But as I didn’t take notes I wasn’t forced to analyse it, and now I don’t remember it so well anymore. You’re lucky!!
Just realize you drinked this Roses de Jeanne Champagne ? Did you like it ? I discover it during my last dinner at Les Ambassadeurs in early feb… i absolutely loved it… it is a very small production, few thousands bottles a year, the one you had is “100% pinot noir”, closer to a white wine than to a classical champagne. The guy’s reputation becomes more and more famous here and he’s known as a true artisanal winemaker.
I’ve succeeded to order a couple of bottles for my personal cellar :o).
Cheers
Laurent
You’ve been to Prémisse? Allan, Wow! I’m hurrying to your site.
Hey favourite Belgian, PG0204: -6! 😛 Hurrying there too…
Hey Trine,
Lovely pictures again… these dishes are really looking like what i got @ In de Wulf recently last wednesday…. many similarities on the textures and visuals. If it was as good as the pictures are beautiful, i can understand you loved it.
As I’m thinking about going back in CPH for summer, Geranium (with noma and probably Nouveau) needs for sure to be on my “to eat” list.
And yes, PG0204 : – 8 now :o)
Cheers
Laurent
Great pictures Trine! Not like mine at Prémisse I took with an Ixus camera. I guess I should start bringing a proper camera and lens … 🙂
Glad you liked Geranium as it’s still my favourite.
You’re welcome, Rodney! I imagine a lunch there during summer would be just stunning. (Hope this summer will be much better than last years’).
Thanks, Zarah 🙂 You will know how good this is!
And thanks to you, Alex! My camera is a digital SLR Canon EOS 350D, but I use a Canon 50 mm Prime 1.4 USM lens instead of the kit 18-55 mm. (I actually believe some of these photos have too much noise).
YKL, you are too kind! 😀
And yes, these are shot with the new lens. I hope you’ll like Geranium as much as I do.
Sounds like a sublime experience – and once again, demonstrates why some of us are compelled to visit Copenhagen as often as we can! 🙂 and in between visits … we can visit your blog to sustain us instead!
Lovely pics Trine – is this the new lens?
Very very appealing pics yout took there. Which camera do you use btw?
Regards,
Alex
*green with envy*
Beautiful! But I would expect no less 😉
WOW! This look really great! What a great evening. And great to see more Blanc de Noirs drinking!! 🙂 The looks of the way the food is set up on the plates reminds me a little of Noma(I mean that in a good way) Light eating but full of flavors! We live right next to Geranium but haven’t been there yet. I will have to talk Britt into going! Thank you for the review, Trine! 🙂