In connection with a business trip to Heidelberg I fancied revisiting Schloss Berg which is managed by head chef Christian Bau and his sweet wife and hostess Yildiz Bau. It is not often that I’m in this area of Europe, so when I am, I try to make it to Schloss Berg (3 stars Michelin). It’s such a wonderful place. To my big surprise Christian Bau most kindly invited me when he learned that I desired to stop by. Luckily, my friend Ingo of High-End Food was able to join me as well.
First time I visited Schloss Berg was back in August 2009. So as this is my second Schloss Berg post, this write-up is mostly a photo report. I’m not describing each dish but commenting on my overall experience as such.
Along with the Lois Roederer Brut Premier Champagne, Reims we received some really fine nibbles. Have a look…
Oyster
Wagu beef tartar with caviare
Foie gras and coffee
Salmon? (I think)
Since my visit last year Daniel Kiowski has replaced Britta Jäger as the sommelier. Ingo suggested that Daniel composed a wine parring of solely German wines, which turned out to be both interesting, eye-opening as well as delighting to me. Perfectly matched, needless to say.
2009 Weisser Bugunder & Chardonnay, Weingut Karl-H. Johner, Baden
Carrot ingwersud with crunchy vegetables
& apple-cilantro infusion
Crab, cold and warm with dashi gelée and cream of apple,
sake and wasabi
Coquille Saint-Jacques with pearls and foamfrom seawater,
vinaigrette of black rice vinegar and combawa
2009 Gelber Orleans, Weingut Knipser, Pfalz
Blue Fin tuna
Back, centre-cut and toro, pickles, soy foam bread
and Japanese essence
…more tuna
2008 Chardonnay Selection Barrique, Weingut Bercher, Baden
Breton Artichokes
Structures, herb salad, Jabugo Bellota, artichokes jus
with olive oil Grand Cru
2007 Wawern Goldberg Riesling Alte Reben, Weingut Van Volxem, Saar
Red Gamberoni
À la plancha, cauli flower, matsubadaki, broth koshihikarreis
with infusion of sea weeds
2007 Chardonnay “SJ”, Weingut Karl-H. Johner, Baden
Atlantic Sole
Shellfish, young leek, different citrus fruit flavours
2003 Bernkasteler Lay, Riesling Spätlese, Markus Molitor, Mosel
Brittany Turbot
Green asparagus, verbena, langoustine
and cream of crusticeantcorail
Bresse pigeon from Mièral
Boudin noir, sauerkraut cream, nuts and mole
2001 Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder ***,
Weingut Dr. Heger, Baden
2005 Cuvee X, Weingut Knipser, Pfalz
Sisteron Lamb
Saddle, belly and sweetbread. Yam,
crumbs from black garlic and miso
Three Sweet Thoughts
Peach and almond milk skin
1993 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese,
Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Ziliken, Saar
Three Sweet Thoughts
Dessert of yuzu, grapefruit and dill
2001 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji Classic, Hungary
Three Sweet Thoughts
Banana split interpreted as a dessert
It was clear to me that Christian Bau has evolved his cuisine. The meal as a whole appeared more distinct and sharp. Only one dish (the sole) was slightly below the standard of the rest and the desserts were improved as well and turned towards a more light and delicate impression.
Where the meal of my visit last year filled with inspiration from different continents and seemed to be in search of something, then this visit’s Carte Blanche appeared more confident and more independent. There were still touches of Asian cuisine and exotic produce, but now it seemed like Bau had made them his own and integrated them into his own kind of cuisine. I really enjoyed that.
It’s hard for me to pick-out highlights but the Coquille Saint-Jacques with pearls and foam amuse bouche was at the top as well as the Breton Artichokes course, which was something completely new to me.
Schloss Berg is for me top class food, very complex. It’s a beautiful setting and ambiance. Most importantly though, this is mixed with a warm and kind atmosphere and utmost friendly attitude from Christian and Yildiz Bau and the staff and that’s what makes this place so special.
Thank you so much!
Yes, the Knipser! 🙂 I did like it. It was rich, fruity but well-balanced, as far as I remember. We got the reds served at the same time to try them both with the pigeon and the lamb. You know the Spätburgunder is more my style and my kind of wine. However, the Knipser was still enjoyable.
As for the menu prices, allow me to elaborate. They are still feeling their way, and changing a bit all the time. Right now the menu says, Small menu 120, Medium menu at 140, Large 160 – and the Great discovery at 189,- eur. We had the medium and that leaves you FULL. Or should I say perfectly full.
As for the wines, they have many good opportunities, I think they quote 10-15 eur per glass (open wine), bottlewise you will pay for example 40-60 for local Riesling, 60-80 for Meursault village. Lovely Dujac 1. cru white or red comes at around 115 eur. Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin village 2000 I think we paid 120 eur.
As far as I understood the menu, you could ask for most wines to be served/paid per glass, but I have not really tried it, so maybe Im wrong.
So Trine, the Knipser…how did you find it, was it any good ?
Great, not too scary then, thanks 🙂
Likewise Trine..
How was the Knipser Cuvee X by the way ?…I still have one bottle in my cellar of that one…but an earlier vintage I think….
The Gastronaut – thanks so much for your comment, Bo, and contribution here. Lucky you, your already going back to SB. 🙂
johan andrén – There’s a simple reason to it as I wasn’t able to get a table 🙁 last time I was in Stockholm (and visited Mistral). They a both on my list as Frantzen/Lindeberg is!
heres the link with photos
http://foodwinerocknroll.wordpress.com/2008/03/24/schloss-berg-nennig-germany-20-march-2008/
Beautiful photos, I cant wait to be back (in 5 days hehe)…
It has not always been like that. If you take a look at my blog and my first review from Schloss Berg, I had the big menu and it was just simply GREAT food with a modern touch, bot not asian at all. But I think Christian Bau then slowly started to flirt with Asian cousine after some visits there. And finally took a bigger step, by introducing Asian inspired interiour, etc. – and by transforming the menu largely. Aroudn the time of the FAZ Vision menu, or just before. Will it stay like that ? I doubt it, but who knows. One thing is for sure…its a clear direction but I think that he will develop further in other directions over the years. He is still very young remember.
im suprised not to find mathias dahlgren matsalen, but mistral on your tips 🙁
@Michael:
4 Courses € 120.-
5 Courses € 130.-
6…€ 140.-
7…€ 150.-
8…€ 160.-
Amuse Gueule-Menu (16 Plates …€189.-)
@zwampen I don’t really know that. Perhaps Bo http://foodwinerocknroll.wordpress.com/ knows who has been coming to Schloss Berg for years.
@Laurent Yes, such a pity you couldn’t make it!
@Michael Perfectly OK to ask that. Only, I don’t remember but I’m trying to find out. Stay tuned…
Thank you, all!!
Hi Trine, it sure looks delicious at Schloss Berg! I was wondering about the prices, could i be so bold as to ask what the tasting menu and the paired wine menu costs? It doesn’t say on the web page.
Extremely impressive… and sad that i missed this one.
Lovely pics as usual Trine 😉
That was a lot of asian influence´s in the menu?!
Has it always been like that? Wonderful meal 😉