Restaurant Koefoed Revisited

Bornholm Bornholm Bornholm

With the fridge comprising nothing but some Parmasan and Präst cheese morsels, capers in salt and a glass of old olives a sudden improvised dinner in town at Restaurant Koefoed saw light on Thursday 6 September. I had phoned a couple of restaurants in vain for a booking and then came to think of this nice place, where I had lunch six months ago and always wanted to return for dinner.

The man behind this nice basement spot is Timo Hoffmann, a Copenhagener, and very passionate about the rocky Baltic sea island of Bornholm. So much that he has dedicated his restaurant to celebrate it by using all the products he can get food and interior-wise from Bornholm. A beautiful thought.

The Appetizer

Shortly after we had given our orders, a little amuse bouche arrived with smoked and salt-cured ham with figs, salted almonds, frissée salad and a bread stick, which was oily but crispy and slightly salt. The fragrance of this little ham dish is still very present in my memory. I have a thing for scents, like with wines, I enjoy the flavours even more when my olfactory sense is being prodded before I lead the fork into my mouth. It’s like a warning, or a hope, a prelude and a promise of something nice and intriguing to come. An allure. Makes me excited.

The ham slice was thin as paper, hugely aromatic and almost melted on my tongue. I liked too the sweet figs and salty bread stick.

Scallops, Cawli Flower pure, bacon and courgette cubes

Fried scallops with caramelized cauliflower puré, pepper bacon and jammed courgette followed. The scallops, oh I love, love scallops, the fresh and nutty taste, and the smell of them welcomed me when the kind waiter palaced the plate in front of me. They were perfectly cooked with a crust and still a bit raw on the inside. The puré was delicious and I wouldn’t have guessed it was cauliflower, if I didn’t know. The bitterness of the vegetable was turned into a fullness of aroma, very interesting, and nicely matched with the courgettes. The pepper bacon was also good, could have been a little more crispy to my taste. I didn’t notice the pepper of it.

My scallops were accompanied by a Riesling from Waipara, Stratum, New Zealand which was nice and with notes of sweet fruit, perhaps because of the temperature of it, but went well with the scallops and courgettes.


The bread could be something they had baked themselves, so good. A remarkable malt flavour with the sliced one, and the muffin formed one was almost like a cake, somewhat sweet and salted on top, spiced with rosemary. It was filled with oil but I enjoyed it, perhaps a little too much, as I had to go and wash my hands bore gripping my food tools again afterwards.

Before the main course came I got a palate cleaner of apples granite with vanilla, which was very fresh and amazed me with it’s great rinse capability. A delight intermezzo.

Mullet with vegetable friends

The main course was a generous portion of fried mullet and mashed potatoes, smoked cheese and late summer vegetables. I didn’t know that a Mullet could be this big. This piece resembled mackerel fish in size and in texture, actually a little bit in taste too but more fine and delicate. The boiled vegetables of carrot, broccoli, onions and cauliflower were very firm and had a nice taste. Again lovely fragrances, and the course was so good that I couldn’t stop eating until the plate was clean.

By the way, I tried to look-up the Mullet fish in my new North Atlantic Seafood book, by Alan Davidson, couldn’t find it, but maybe he didn’t cover the island of Bornholm.

To go with the Mullet I got a North American Chardonnay, from the Sebastiani producer, Sonoma. It was opened at my table and was cold, but not too much. Very fruity and voluminous both in the nose and the palate and balanced with tannin. I liked this one more than the first one I had.

As for the service it was as friendly and accurate as my first time here.

So, conclusion. What’s the conclusion? Well, go to Restaurant Kofoed! Taste the traditional Danish cuisine with a new touch, high-quality products, sense the passion and the carefulness for the food, discover Bornholm and be glad!

A Nice Sense

6 Responses to “Restaurant Koefoed Revisited”

  • I usually do the manual mode with longer shutter time. It does look best with regular flash pictures though, when the flash isn’t too much.
    My ixus is just 800 I believe.

    Oh well, I’ll have to live with my pictures and adjust as I get more experience with it in restaurants – or I should just bring the Digital SLR, but that’s just a bit too much I think 🙂

    I’ve written about Kong Hans and it was indeed good!

  • I’ve experimented a bit and often take both with the manual mode and auto. This is my second Ixus. The first only went to 800 ISO but this camera, 950, has 1600 ISO. That makes a difference. However, I’ve discovered that the automatic settings (the little green square, you know) takes better indoor pictures.

    Was the king good? 🙂 Look forward to hearing about your dinner.

  • Yes on Friday, trying to memorise it all 😉

    I don’t think the Ixus does my pictures well. Either it’s too dark, too shaken due to shutter time or too much flash. What are the settings on your Ixus when you take pictures?

  • Thanks, guys 🙂

    Restaurant Kofoed is not even a year old, I believe. Actually, this place was a challenge when it comes to the photos, not much light in the basement. I shot these with my Ixus 950.

    Well, Laurent try not to have too high expectations 😉 You might get disappointed like me with The Paul and Allan at noma.

    Allan, weren’t you going to Kong Hans this weekend? 😉

  • Never heard of it, but sounds interesting from your review Trine!

    Laurent, I hope you’ll have a great weekend in Copenhagen – at least the food should do you well!

  • Looks great ! (again should i say :o)… The more I read your posts the more i’m estonished by the number of quality restaurants like this one can be found in Copenhagen… while they are not known that much outside the country (… or even maybe the city itself ?)

    Regarding my trip next weekend, i’ve booked a table at Paustian for the saturday night ! I guess that together with Noma, i’ll have a good food experience these 2 evenings. I’ll try to post my reviews asap the week after.

    French greetings ! :o)


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